Hack Your Ignition (Before Someone Else Does) 439
guanxi writes: "IEEE Spectrum has an interesting article about hacking and specifically, the "hacker's nirvana on wheels", all the way from hot-rodding to reprogramming your digital ignition. Of course, I neither endorse nor recommend any of the procedures mentioned, any of which may be inherently dangerous to your life and your warranty. "
Digital Odometers (Score:3, Interesting)
I'd imaging it is just stored in memory somewhere. Set'er back to 0 and no one would be the wiser!
Re:Digital Odometers (Score:3, Informative)
I personally think that digital odometers were a mistake, but I also think that once you get past the 150k mile mark, mileage is pretty irrelavant, since most of the car has been replaced with newer parts at that point. My old car was in better shape at 140k miles than at 118k. Ive gone through numerous body panels, a radiator, a cylinder head, a few sets of tires, shocks, brakes etc etc. I think I would rather have a rebuilt car with 200k on the clock than an original parts car with 115k.
Re:Digital Odometers (Score:2)
Re:Digital Odometers (Score:2)
A while back, I replaced the speedometer in my '77 Cutlass Supreme with an older model...the replacement (swiped from a '73 Cutlass in the junkyard) is a 120-mph speedometer with a nicer-looking scale than the 85-mph speedometer that was in my car. I wanted to retain the odometer reading, though. It turned out to be fairly easy to unclip the odometer mechanism from the "old" speedometer and stick it into the "new" speedo. If I had been so inclined, a few minutes with an electric drill would've let me dial in whatever mileage I wanted. (FWIW, it's old enough that it rolls over at 100k miles. It's probably rolled over once, but it very well could've rolled over twice—or not at all—before I bought the car. As for odometer checks, it was exempt on account of (1) age and (2) the probability that it had exceeded its mechanical limits.)
Vehicle Speed Sensor and Speedometer Cables (Score:3, Informative)
This meant no headlights, turn signals, radios, and no guages. Nothing. Which meant that the odometer didn't rack up miles. Perfect if you plan on selling the thing.
Heheh...
I imagine though that it would probably be just as easy to disconnect the cable in a normal odometer if you wanted to deceive. I'm not positive though.Older cars had a speedometer cable coming from the transmission tailshaft or transaxle to the gauge. The cable was merely a concentric cable in jacket, kinda like bicycle brake cable but meant to spin. For the most part, you could simply reach up behind the dashboard, feel around to the center of the back of the speedometer, and unclip the speedo cable from the gauge. A warning: this is a lot more difficult than it sounds, the contortions required to get your hand back there are nasty, there are probably live wires with some current (ie. headlight circuit, ammeter, etc) back there so make sure you take off any metallic jewelry, and stuff back there is fragile and expensive (big labor) to fix.
Don't disconnect the speedo cable at the transmission. The cable is usually driven directly by a gear, and it's kept lubricated inside the transmission oil. When you take off the cable, if you don't plug the hole in the transmission well, dust will get in there and lunch your transmission (to say nothing of the big leak messing up your driveway).
Because speedometer cables are expensive and heavy and the fuel injection system likes to know the car's speed so that it can better understand the engine load, most cars since about 1985 will have a Vehicle Speed Sensor. The VSS is attached to the side of the transmission exactly where the speedo cable would have come out. It uses optical sensors, hall effect sensors or magnetic pickup coils to create a pulsetrain relative to the speed of the car. The pulsetrain is then sent to the computer, the computer usually sends that on to the speedometer. Sometimes they're simply paralleled.
You could disconnect the VSS just by unplugging the wire. Most cars won't even notice it until there's an engine load (vacuum is lowered, throttle position and engine speed aren't idle) which could only be explained by movement. At that point, your Check Engine light will light up, and it probably won't go away until you reconnect the sensor. Sometimes it won't go out until you visit the dealership. And, unless the EFI computer reads the data coming from the ABS computer as a backup to the VSS, it's very unlikely that it will generate a signal to drive the speedo or the tach - though, based on engine speed and knowing what gear you're in, the computer could calculate and drive the speedo/odo to display accurate speed and mileage.
My best advice is, if you want to play with the EFI system (and VSS/Speedo/Odo as a consequence), find yourself an earlier (mid-80s) fuel-injected car on the way to the junkyard. Chevy Celebrity / Pontiac 6000 are common, cheap (about $200 if you find one with expired plates rusting in someone's laneway), durable and relatively easy to fix. The GM multiport and throttle body EFI systems are well documented all over the place because they're so popular, and variants were used across the entire product line in a given year.
Buy the car, take it home, start it up, and start pulling sensors to see what they all do!
Re:Digital Odometers (Score:2)
Not really related but..
I would NEVER buy a previous rental car. I know the way I treated them and I am sure others have done the same. Ever test the antilock brakes or the cruise control operation? Try this with a FWD car. Set the cruise around 55 and then pull up the parking brake. You will skid for quite a distance before the cruise finally kicks off, and then roughly 15 more seconds before coming to a complete stop. If the parking brake is not strong enough to lock the back tires, wait until the cruise kicks off and then tap the regular brake. This should get the back tires to lock up and stay locked up (remember, starting friction is greater then sliding friction).
Don't try this on a bend though, you could end up with a Darwin Award [darwinawards.com].
Re:Digital Odometers (Score:2)
I take it you've never tried to find a non-worn out replancement for, or tried to repair any of, the old electro-mechanical (mostly mechanical) dashboard clocks.
car mods (Score:5, Informative)
Re:car mods (Score:2)
The modifications that really make a difference almost always take place under the hood, invisible to the rice eye.
Re:car mods (Score:2, Informative)
large *pipes*? (Score:2)
Re:car mods (Score:3, Funny)
Saw a pickup truck with a fin the other day. Dumbest-looking thing I've seen.
Also saw a monster-sized truck tooling around town with a biiiig sticker across the back window: "Size Does Matter!" Pity the poor fool: by my survey, most people immediately think "Which must be why you're compensating, eh?"
Re:car mods (Score:2)
There's a ton of rice boys where I live (in MD) it's a riot when I'm out on my bike and the pull up in the other lane revving their engines. They always want to race, demonstrating their lack of understanding, and they always get dusted.
Re:car mods (Score:2)
Actually, if you think about it, a big-assed spoiler on the rear of a front wheel drive car is a pretty stupid thing. You're getting downforce on the wrong wheels.
LV
Re:car mods (Score:2)
Re:car mods (Score:2)
I doubt they would be going +100mph through the neighborhood corners taking advantage of the extra downforce. The trees will catch them.
Re:car mods (Score:2, Insightful)
You usually are even on a rear-wheel-drive car. Almost every car sold to consumers understeers (meaning, in a corner at speed, when the tire adhesion limit is reached, the front tires start to slide first).
This is much safer than oversteer (rear tires slide first) for the average driver. Sliding off the road is bad, but not as bad as going into a spin. And if the driver is sharp enough to nail the brakes before the car leaves the pavement, the speed reduction and weight transfer mean the front tires get their bite back, and average drivers can hopefully steer out of the problem (especially with ABS, which rocks).
So unless you have a Porsche 911 or one of the 3 other bizarro mass-market cars that oversteer, think about what this hypothetical rear spoiler will do. Assume you have a rear-wheel-drive car. And assume for the sake of argument that this spoiler actually has a significant effect by the time you get up to 120 MPH or so. Your car's front wheels are going to go in a straight line if you try to take a corner too hard. Is it really smart to allot yourself an extra KICKASS 0.01 g of forward acceleration limit that your engine has no chance of even getting near anyway, at the cost of being a little more likely to pilot your 120 MPH car into a tree?
Spoilers are funny.
Re:car mods (Score:4, Informative)
Re:car mods (Score:2)
a mod is taking the 4cyl iron duke out of my 1984 Fiero and shoehorning in a Chevy V8 from a Camaro IrocZ (www.v8archie.com) or maybe a northstar engine from a caddie.
Then replacing the brake calipers (all 4, any car that doesn't have 4 wheel disc brakes is a poser car.) with oversized vented and cross drilled rotors and 3 piston calipers, replacing the suspension to get a fully adjustable racing suspension, replace the swaybars with 2 inch thick racing bars with active adjustment.
That is modding a car... When I take her out of the garage and it still looks pretty much stock.... it eats all the ricers I meet and deals them a nice big helping of humility.
Modding a car is making it into something that is amazing, not the adding neon (or those stupid windshield washer squirter lights) a fake wing and then ruin the suspension an performance by putting on 13 inch deep dished rims with extenders to overstress the wheel bearings. It's making it holy-damned fast,increasing it's ability to take turns at higher speeds safely, and increasing it's efficiency and stability to the point that you can race it... IMSA racing... anything else is just a bunch of posers trying to look cool.
Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:4, Troll)
They just want to make their pansy little box or car look faster.
Exactly. For clarity to those who don't know cars:
There's nothing like having some loser describing to you how quickly he can make his 1.6L Honda Civic go.
Imagine if you owned a Cray supercomputer and some child implied that his "tuned" 400MHz Celeron was in the same ballpark.
As the saying goes, there's no replacement for displacement. An engine is an air pump, the more air you suck through it per revolution, the more fuel you can mix with the air to achieve complete combustion. The more combustion, the bigger the explosion pushing the piston down, and the more power you get from the engine.
A 1.6L or whatever Honda is laughable in the face of a common Chevy 350 (5.7L) like you find in a Camaro or Caprice Classic, or in the face of a Ford 302 (5.0L) like in a Mustang, much less the Chrysler 440 (7.2L), Chevy 454 (7.4L) and King of Big-Blocks, the Chrysler 426 Hemi of the musclecar days.
Street racing is acceleration from a stoplight. That's called drag racing. There's a reason why those long and skinny drag racing cars with the huge fat tires (the cars are called "rail cars", the class of racing is Top Fuel drag) are rear-wheel-drive with big V8s, not front-wheel-drive with whiny little 4-cylinder engines.
Those racecars share more in common with my daily-driver 1976 Dodge pickup truck than does a typical ricer's car. My '76 Ram has a 400 (6.6L) V8 driving the rear wheels. With a curb weight of 4,000lb, it's about twice the weight of a Honda Civic. But 6.6L / 1.6L = 4.125 times more engine, and all other things being equal, 4.125 times the power. Into only twice the weight.
Needless to say, when an Integra with a big stereo pulls up beside me, I enjoy stomping on the gas pedal and showing him my taillights.
Modern EFI, overhead cams, combustion chamber design, etc., make incremental differences to improving the power, but a street car's engine is still built for gas mileage, durability and emissions, not for power, and the modern requirements for gas mileage and emissions choke the power potential of these modern improvements.
Those of us with real machines are quite content with our beige cases (in my case, a older, but still fast as all hell compaq proliant 8000 which was picked up dirt cheap from a dot com gone bust) and sleeper cars (also in my case, an Alpina).Indeed! My truck is forest green with rust and primer spots. Someday, I'll get around to painting it so that it looks nice again, but there won't be silly aftermarket rims or little blue lights on the windshield washer jets or clear tailights and big aluminum spoilers.
The car is either fast, or it isn't.
My truck gets 7 miles per gallon on the highway. The HC emissions are ~2 PPM, which is better than lots of 1986 cars, let alone 1976 trucks. I'm burning all that fuel. Where do you think it all goes?
Final thought. I tried Carroll Shelby's old trick. I taped a $20 bill to my dashboard, just in front of the passenger's seat. I had a disbeliever get in. I told him that, when the stoplight turned green, if he could grab that $20, it was his. He didn't get the $20.
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2)
My plane gets 18 mpg at 150 mph.
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2)
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2)
A V12 getting owned by whatever is in those Rice Burners..
Even if the dude in the Viper could not drive worth a shit, as the car approached 100 I am sure the V12 would have quite a bit of influence... If you were correct, then the Viper would have won.
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:4, Interesting)
I don't have the link, but I saw a video on Consumption Junction of a Viper getting owned by a shitty little Civic.
It's unlikely, but not impossible.
Acceleration is all about power to weight ratio, and then how well you get that power to the ground.
First off, economics. I can go to a wrecking yard, spend $50 for a used Chevy 350 from a junked taxicab, spend $1000 having it machined and then another $2000 on assorted parts, assemble it myself, and get (conservatively) 400HP from it.
To get anywhere near that kind of power from a smaller engine (1.6L = ~95 CID), the engine must be revved up all to hell, and the machining tolerances must therefore be extremely tight - spending lots of labor having pistons balanced to within 1/100th of a gram, versus 1/10th of a gram like you could do with the 350. Yes, the newer engine's head will flow better than a 350, yes, there's less reciprocating mass because it's just a sewing machine. But to get the volumetric efficiency and torque curves high enough to do that without grenading, you're adding a turbo, porting the heads, etc. Aftermarket parts are far more expensive for those motors, and the knowledge base of guys who've built up Civics for serious power is a lot less than the skill and number of guys who've built up 350s. Expect to spend $10-15k by the time all is said and done.
Now, gearing. A Viper's first and second gear are agressive, but the car is designed for top-end speed, which is reflected in the design of the brakes and suspension. The Viper will be quick off the line (1st and 2nd) but the motor will have more room to wind in 3-6, to allow the RPMs to be reasonable at 100+MPH.
If the Civic is anywhere near as quick as the Viper off the line, he's obviously not only built up the engine but also the drivetrain (which would break if too much power was applied to it). While building a tough engine, therefore, the guy in the Civic would have had to build a transmission to survive the forces the engine is passing through it. At the same time, he would have changed the gear ratios for acceleration.
A big strong guy on a bicycle stuck in tenth gear won't out-accelerate a puny guy shifting his derailleur from 1 through 5.
Having said that, even geared for speed rather than acceleration, a Viper still turns low 13s. That's about 13.2 seconds from stopped to the end of a quarter mile. It's quicker than most production cars, but certainly not fast when you're talking about building for performance. My (stock) 1976 Ram with the 400 (6.6L) engine does it in about 14.8.
By comparison, I built a Chevette with a Buick 3.8L V6 under the hood. It turned 12.8 seconds on the 1/4 mile - slightly faster than a Viper. But, there's no way it could attain let alone maintain 150MPH the way a Viper could. Buy a Mustang 5.0, slap headers, cam, 4-bbl intake and carb at it, and you're faster off the line than a Viper.
We still haven't even gotten into a question of driving skill. Lots of people who own Vipers know nothing about cars. They're dot-com CEOs and accountants who don't know anything about cars. Is he sidestepping the clutch to hold the engine at its peak torque curve? If he's not, he's not making full use of the power.
A V12 getting owned by whatever is in those Rice Burners..I'm not sure if it's possible for an inanimate object to possess another inanimate object.
Last Viper I drove had a V10, actually, rather similar to this one [mopar.com] which you can order at the parts counter at any Chrylser dealership. And, while I imagine you understand the concept of cylinders, I will assume that you don't understand the concept of displacement. Here's the relationship in a nutshell: All other things being equal, a Ford 300 inline 6-cylinder would probably outperform a Ford 302 V8. Why? The 6-cylinder motor has two less pistons dragging up and down, two less pairs of valves, two less connecting rod bearings - but still pumps through almost (2 cubic inches difference) as much air as the V8.
Cylinders are not everything. You don't get your power from having more cylinders, you get it from having more displacement. Cylinders merely divide the displacement into manageable chunks.
By the way, you'll note that the Viper's motor is 488 cubic inches. About 8.0L.
Even if the dude in the Viper could not drive worth a shit, as the car approached 100 I am sure the V12 would have quite a bit of influence... If you were correct, then the Viper would have won.Yup. Though it does take nearly a quarter of a mile for a Viper to get up to 100MPH from a stop. Most street races are significantly less than that.
Even so, either the guy in the Honda spent more doing that than it would have cost him to buy a Viper, or the guy in the Viper was the typical Viper-driver.
Ask yourself this. The Viper has a large displacement engine (488CID) and is rear-wheel-drive. The Honda has a small displacement engine (~95CID, too lazy to calculate it right now) and is front-wheel-drive.
Virtually all performance cars have a large displacement and are rear-wheel-drive - From Aston-Martin to Vector to Viper, with Porsche, Ferrari, Llamborghini, 1960s-1970s American musclecars, NASCAR, NHRA, serious ralleye, etc. in there.
Virtually all economy cars have a small displacement and are front-wheel-drive. The Honda is in the same high class as Tercels, Ford Escorts, Renault 5, VW Rabbit, Dodge Aries/Plymouth Reliant, Nissan Micra, etc.
Ask yourself why.
Now, go play with your automotive Celeron.
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2, Funny)
;-)
Sorry...
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:5, Interesting)
I believe many slashdot readers would be interested in your "rice burners". Racing a honda is an exercise in science over brute force, something slashdot readers can appreciate. To equate it, it would be the difference between getting just any old pentium 4 1.5 Ghz system, and getting an athalon 1.2 Ghz and tweaking it by using better hardware, a cleaner OS install, faster standards, and some code tweaking to get the performance level up above that of the P-4.
In the same fashion, you could take your '71 Nova SS 350 and blow away a stock 1995 civic. But you could also take the civic, add Nitrous, replace the hood with a fiberglass one, change the gears on the transmission, get a forced air kit, some traction bars, and a new set of cams, and run 11's. You have to remember with that big steel car and the small block 350, you're pulling a lot of weight. You're getting much more horsepower per liter out of a honda.
Just for kicks, check out http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2002/drivers/S_Pa
And just for the record, I still cringe when I see a honda roll down the street with just the exhaust done, cause it sounds bad and looks retarted. My brother has a '71 Nova SS w/ 350, traction bars, lunati cams, poroso throttle or something, you name it, it's got it. It puts about 410 Hp on the ground and has an ET of 12.2. But it also gets about 5 miles to the gallon. I'd rather have the fast-if-you-want-it-fast honda, which also gets 37 miles to the gallon.
~z
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2, Insightful)
As you (and most "ricer's") seem to conveniently forget, you could also add Nitrous (and all those other mods) to the Nova, and run 9's. The correct comparison is not a heavily modified Civic vs. a stock V8, but a heavily modified V8 vs. said Civic. And the large displacement V8 still wins. An engine with nearly 3x the displacement at the same level of modification will make more power. It's physics. Slap a turbo on a stock-motored Civic, tune it correctly, and you can run maybe a mid 12. A stock motored Camaro/Firebird can run high 12's, slap a turbo on one, and you will be in the mid-low 10's.
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2, Troll)
Imagine if you owned a Cray supercomputer and some child implied that his "tuned" 400MHz Celeron was in the same ballpark.
You are a complete loser. I should expect as much.
Comparing your piece of crap US-built 1950s engine design to a modern piece of Jap engineering is not about comparing an overclocked PC to a Cray
My Honda Integra Type R manages about three-four times the power of your big-iron block at the same rev range, not to mention around the same torque.
it will happilly chew up 99.99% of American cars in a straight line, but we won't even talk about what happens in the corners (which we have here in Europe)
To the moderators who gave this guy +4 shame on you
Mod this parent up as funny! (Score:3, Insightful)
ROFL! You do realize that HP is a function of torque at a particular RPM right? Ummm... Not too many 4 bangers have v8 torque at ANY rpm let alone the same rpm.
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2)
If I were designing a dragster from scratch, I'd stick in a V12. Six cylinders per bank gives perfect dynamic balance, more cylinders gives more power and higher revs as a rule, while consuming a little more fuel and being a bit longer. But hey, look at existing dragsters, fuel mileade and length aren't exactly limitations...
Anyway, it's nowhere near as clear-cut as you make out. Yes, a large engine can give you nice power, but a smaller, better tuned engine can give the same power and better economy. Examples (picked due to local knowledge
* TVR Griffith (early 90s British convertible). 4.3l V8, 280BHP.
* TVR Cerbera 4.5 (late 90s British coupe). 4.5l V8, 420BHP.
* Honda S2000 (late 90s Japanese convertible). 2.0l inline 4, 237BHP.
* Hyundai Coupe V6 (new model, Korean coupe). 2.6l V6, 165BHP.
* Mitsubishi FTO (around for ages, Japanese coupe). 2.0l inline 4, 197BHP.
Cylinder count is far from clear-cut, either. Look at the Porshe 968 from the early-mid 90s. 3.0l inline 4. Seriously. Fast and torquey.
Don't believe in FWD? Well, I wouldn't bet the house on it, but look at what can be done with it with late 90s BTCC cars. Production derived saloon racers with 300ish BHP going through the front wheels, from 2l inline 4s. Or actually read a test for an Integra Type R (seeing as most of us can't just pop out and drive one to get first-hand data) and compare its circuit lap times with equivalent RWD material.
An RWD chassis and a large V8 will produce nice performance, yes, but a decently built inline 4 and FWD chassis will produce more performance than most can practically (and legally) use on the roads - plus can be way cheaper, because it can be built from pretty much the same bits as the cheapy little thing your parents go shopping in. They're fast, fun and accessible to many more.
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2)
I never really appreciated it at the time, but they used to over take people, going up a hill, while towing a carvan. Yowee.
Of course, that was an older model (70s some time), and now they have the 90s 5l model. Similar power, but uses HALF the fuel....
And then of course, i ride a 50cc motor scooter.... it amuses me that their car had over 100x the swept volume. That's a huge range of engine sizes.
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:3, Interesting)
Now, when I have to replace my car, I'd love to get a Grand Marquis Marauder - going from normally aspirated to supercharged would be even better. The only problem is that the Marauder has crap I don't want - leather seats and a very distinctive trim package. I like q-ships - its great fun to surprise a kid with what's under the hood of a normal looking car. Besides, driving an "arrest me red" sportscar gets you far too much attention from the police - they really don't look twice at a sedate-looking sedan, especially one with a 2M antenna and 440MHz antenna on the trunk....
(and a moment of silence for my previous car - a 1973 Mercury Monterey Custom with a 400 that was killed when the idiots at United Engine Specialists, West Kellog, Wichita, USA botched the engine rebuild and the poor thing oil starved, collapsed it's lifters, ate the #2 intake valve and finally siezed solid 700 miles from home. Needless to say, I don't recomend United Engine Specialist's work.)
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:3, Interesting)
What? I don't want to be a troll here, but just last summer me and a friend were doing 150MPH in a basic, unmodified 2.5V6 '94 Opel Omega. That's a V6, 170bhp engine, nothing spectacualar (considering we spent some time the year before putting a BMW M3 E30 tunned to 320bhp through its paces.)
I'm reading about all these American cars, with huge (5-7l) engines and I don't really see any startling numbers. I know that the M-Series cars from BMW are toned down to be street legal in the US, and it seems that none of the other manufacturers are doing anything special. What's the deal? Has America lost its prowess?
Re:Car Mods, Real Power versus Silly Stickers (Score:2)
[gti-vr6.net]
How to Cook Rice (Volkswagen GTI vs. Honda Civic)
Cryptnotic
Took me under an hour.. (Score:4, Interesting)
What I also learnt while I was at it is that since they don't seem to expect anyone to try they don't bother making them tolerant of tampering and after a little playing even a hard reset didn't get it responding, I ended up having to disconnect the battery.
Huh? (Score:2)
Tune with care (Score:5, Insightful)
I personally prefer more conservative tuning, but then when some guy beats you during an ad-hoc "race," your first instinct is "gotta get mo' power."
Re:Tune with care (Score:2, Insightful)
I'm all for hacking cars. I personally dislike the way manufacturers today make it nearly impossible to replace a factory stereo without major work. Look at newer Mercedes and BMW's (especially the new 745 with iDrive). There have been plenty of times I wished I could change the way the Mercedes navigation system takes user input (scroll left and right to select letters, I'd much prefer using the numbers on the keypad). I'd also like to fix a bug where the integrated telephone only lets you dial the first number associated with a particular name (Timeports allow multiple number per location/name) but I'm stuck until they get enough complaints and do it themselves.
Re:Apex seal? (Score:2)
my guess is that you worked on hot-rodded RX-7's or something?
Rotaries Rock!! (Score:2, Interesting)
<sidenote>I'm putting down 313 Rear Wheel Horse Power, and 301 ftlbs or torque with basic bolt on 'hacks' (mods)...(Here is my dyno sheet [mazzella.org]) Intake, exhaust, intercooler, and computer. I replaced the engine at 130,000 miles because a vacuum hose popped off my wastegate, and caused the turbos to boost well past 15lbs, with no extra fuel to compensate... ping! Apex seal blew. I'm now at 150,000 miles, zip-tied vacuum hoses, and have had nothing but dependable and fun to drive Mazda Zoom Zoom-y-ness </sidenote>
Mazda is re-introducing the rotary later this year with the RX-8. [rotarynews.com] Now called the RENESIS, the engine is a non-turboed multi-side-port 1.3L rotary, that is projected to put out 255-280 HP . The computer should be easy to hack, and a turbo kit will be available shortly after the introduction of the car. I would estimate about +330 HP from a turboed RENESIS.
Re:Tune with care (Score:2)
How do you... (Score:3, Funny)
Honda: "what's the problem, sir"
You: "well, I was wiring an internal network into my car and fused my hand to the cable and the glove box. Is this covered?"
The Aritcle in a Nutshell... (Score:5, Funny)
Man builds automobile.
Man adds digital data bus to automobile.
Man discovers that you can snoop on automobile's digital data busses.
Man succeeds.
Man discovers no useful information from snooping automobile's digital data bus.
Logical conclusion: Man has too much time on his hands.
A question (Score:4, Insightful)
Now, what the author is talking about is reverse-engineering the systems that control AntiLock braking, ignition, and transmission control, among other things. It's a really cheap way to improve performance on a car.
Car companies (well, at least Ford [fordreallysucks.com]) have a bad history when it comes to electronic civil liberties. At what point in reverse-engineering a throttle control system would you be "bypassing an access protection device"? Probably never. But consider that Adobe got someone jailed for breaking ROT13; Cuecat was XOR. If people start selling hot-rod software (and they are), how long will it be till auto manufacturers start answering Yes to the author's "is it encrypted" question. It might only be ROT13, but it would be enough to bust anyone who was selling firmware upgrades for a Mustang and put them out of business for good.
Anyone remember the 60 minutes Audi 5000 scandal? Where the car's fuel injection system was said to, in rare cases, cause the car to accelerate out of control, causing injury or death? Let your subconcious do the dreaming about the accidents that could come from improperly debugged ABS code or throttle control. Now imagine that someone hacks their car's firmware, crashes in a fireball, and their family sues the automaker. The automaker can't prove that the car was modified... at all.
My prediction: this stuff will scare automakers shitless, and they will fall all overthemselves to find a way to apply the DMCA to stopping the dissemination of reverse-engineering information.
Of course, I could be wrong.
Re:A question (Score:2, Insightful)
<RANT>
Put who out of business!? The car companies? This is stupid. They are not giving away cars like the cuecat was given away, nor are they selling or offering the "firmware" updates. My personal feeling is that the car companies have it right. You purchase the hardware...you don't license it. After it is yours, you can cut it up into little pieces and send each little screw as stocking stuffers to all your family all around the world. You could then, at the next family reunion, put the car back together. The car companies don't care. (It would make news sites such as slashdot.) But, the point is the car companies already made their profit.
As for the safety point of view: once again, the car companies do not care. There have been thousands of cars chopped to pieces to be something they weren't originally. Think hotrods, think limo's, think tree-hugging hippies that covert their cars to electric. Sometimes the car companies use it as free advertising. Again, they aren't licensing the car, they sold the car. Once people start to modify the car, the car companies are no longer responsible. (ie: with some cars, you can't even take the car to have minor service performed by any company other than the dealer without voiding the warranty and causing a "hands off" condition by the car manufacturer.) The car companies are only responsibile for the original products safety...not ensuring that it can't be "hacked."
Sorry, but your near-sighted words bother me.
</RANT>
Re:A question (Score:2)
All in all, I think that Ford could care less about ppl hacking the computer systems right now. The trouble is that the EPA bends the car manafacutuers over backwards to make them meet emmisions requirements. If enough ppl modify thier systems without regard for emissions, someone WILL step in about it. Future cars emissions may be the factory's responsibility far after it rolls off the assembly line, at which time the car companies will be more apt to sell 'sealed' systems that the end user cannot modify at all.
I think modders need to learn environmental responsibility. Right now the quest for a few hundreds off thier ETA lets emissions go out the window. *shurg*
Re:A question (Score:2)
However, these are the same arguments that where used long, long ago about other mods to a car - new brakes, suspension, etc. Of course these where easier to detect. I would bet that fairly soon auto manufactures are going to find a way to set a 'flag' somewhere that would alert them to any possible mods a car has had (a little black bock, heavily armored, containing a 16k Flash RAM chip + some sort of protection scheme would do nicely, which BTW, if you decide to mess with you DESERVE to be prosecuted - breach of contract, i.e. warrany. But, in the meantime, you are right - the auto manufactures would/are probably scared of this.
An interesting note: I DOUBT that an encryption system could be effectively implemented on a car. Considering the extra processing overhead this would require to encrypt/decrypt each communication and with response times needing to be in the thousands of a second (at least) I would be very, very suprised if it would be worth their time + cost effective to implement one.
Re:A question (Score:2)
LOL.
That leaves you wide open for a man-in-the-middle attack. Just grab the data which is in the clear, alter it, and send it on it's way. As a mtter of fact some data signals can be doubled or cut in half just by cutting some of the wires and reconnecting them in a different order. Crude, but effective.
-
Re:A question (Score:2)
When I saw "Physical hot rodding isn't cheap because it often involves the inadvertent testing to destruction of new ideas and components. Digital hot rodding, though--where software is used to modify how a vehicle does something--is orders of magnitude cheaper and far more accessible." I thought the author doesn't get it just as much as the hardware guys he was talking to. This isn't a simulator, its controllers for real physical hardware. You can blow an engine up by buggering about with the software just as easily as by fiddling with physical stuff.
And, as you say, in the worst case you can kill people.
Re:A question (Score:2)
Thing is, it used to be that everything was in ROM, bcos ROM was the only cost-effective long-term storage mechanism. So your code and calibrations are all stored in one chip - you want to replace the chip, you also have to write your own engine control algorithm. Which is a seriously non-trivial exercise if you want to meet emissions regs and get modern levels of fuel economy.
But manufacturers are now switching to Flash. If there's a bug, you can reflash the controller with a new version of software (see recent reports on bugs in the Ford Focus and Renault Laguna software). Downside is that so can everyone else. So manufacturers have security protocols which prevent anyone who doesn't know the protocol from getting in. This is security-by-obscurity - the protocols are not particularly complicated but would be awkward to reverse-engineer, mainly due to an enforced lag between attempts which would seriously slow down any brute-force hacking (suppose there's 65536 combinations, and the box enforces 10s between attempts, then you're going to be there for over a week trying all combinations!).
However, it's incredibly easy for the auto-maker to prove that the software was modified if the controller survives the impact - simply read out the contents of the calibration and do a diff against the cal for that vehicle. Job done. The auto-maker has taken reasonable care to make it difficult for ppl to get access, if someone goes out of their way to turn their car into a deathtrap then the manufacturers have no liability.
Note that there _is_ some aftermarket tweaking that can be done; some settings are provided for dealers to change useful things like tire size, final drive ratio etc if the car gets components uprated. But even this is protected as well, so you have to take it to a dealer to get it changed. It may be a pain to pay a dealer to do something this trivial, but it stops ppl arbitrarily screwing around with the controller. For example, cars measure speed and distance by counting tire revs and scaling by the tire size, so you could mess it all up by setting that scaling wrong.
Grab.
Re:A question (Score:2)
Well, that explains it. I tweeked the setting on my car two years ago and I guess pulled a NASA. [cnn.com] I must have messed up the units for wheel radius (inches/millimeters). My odometer only reads about 900 miles, my fuel efficiency has been 1.3 gallons to the mile, and my speedometer never seemed to go above 2 or 3 MPH.
My brother made a similar mod last week. He's been getting over 400 miles to the gallon, but he's put close to 10,000 miles on the odometer in just a few days. And now the speedometer breaks 100 at idle.
-
Re:A question (Score:2)
But in Europe we really do care about this stuff. We can't afford to run 15-20mph cars so engines have to be smaller and the vehicle has to be lighter, and we all want cars that go off the line like a rocket so they need to be properly tuned. I drove a 3l injected Ford Taurus one time in the US, which performed significantly worse in nearly every category (including acceleration) than the 1.4l carb Peugeot 309 I drive in the UK - the only improvement was braking due to ABS.
Grab.
Hacking the Odometer (Score:5, Interesting)
New Ford F-150's, Expeditions, ect.
Unplug the main harness going to the digital display, and locate a gray wire, with a black stripe. (your VSS wire) Place a small strip of tape over the metal pin, and
VOLIA
no mo miles
Re:Hacking the Odometer (Score:2, Insightful)
I would say if you are buying a car that looks like it was way too few miles, then maybe have this checked.
Another way is to check the tires. Is there too much wear for the number of miles are on it? If not, have they been replaced? If you are getting a car that doesn't have original tires after 15,000 miles, its a good sign its been tampered with.
Also, check the ball joints on the stearing in front. I know its silly, but those will show wear pretty well. Struts and shocks are another good indicator.
Re:Hacking the Odometer (Score:2)
Re:Hacking the Odometer (Score:2)
The GM LTx cars are already capable of this (Score:2, Informative)
LT1 Edit [lt1.net]
That's been going on for a while (Score:3, Informative)
My warranty? (Score:2, Funny)
"dangerous to your life and your warranty"
Yeah I would hate to expireWanna see a REALLY cool car? (Score:4, Informative)
Re:Wanna see a REALLY cool car? (Score:3, Informative)
No pity for him here though. Goes along with what I think of people with toys like expensive pimped-out cars and gaudy flash sites. Give me my '87 Nissan and plain text web page any day!
Back to adding neon lights into my computer...
Keep the Warrenty (Score:3, Interesting)
Formula 1 (Score:3, Informative)
Re:Formula 1 (Score:2)
Uh, yeh and in consumer cars too... (Score:2)
OK - Free beer offer (Score:5, Funny)
Suppose you had one, what would a cool hacker (such as you, dear reader) make it do?
Oh, BTW, I guess I'd have to buy you a Ginger Beer.
Alan.
Re:OK - Free beer offer (Score:3, Funny)
Very common already (Score:4, Informative)
For the more advanced racer, there are entire standalong engine management systems that entirely the engine computer itself (think Haltech E6k and others).
The point here is that the signals used between sensors and microprocessors onboard a vehicle aren't difficult to decode. Most relate to measuring the resistance across a sensor or sending out a pulse to run a fuel injector at a given interval. Granted, the signals sent between the various computers are a bit more complex, but it's by no means impossible to decode. The only reason that 3rd-party aftermarket manufacturers are really the only people building these things is that there isn't a whole lot of return for the average home-mechanic. By the time Joe Six-Pack builds his engine management system, he's spent so much time that he could have enhanced the performance of his vehicle with all sorts of non-electronic devices that are cheaper and better understood in the automotive community.
Are there very cool things that can be done by the individual with a personally-designed engine (and transmission, and A/C, etc) management system? Sure! Loads of cool stuff!
Now how many people out there can spare the time, effort, and money to have a system that really only performs marginally better than anything that can be bought off the shelf? Not many people, that's for sure.
But luckily, that's what universities are for...which explains why I'm still in school.
Re:Very common already (Score:3, Insightful)
Hmmm - what about overclockers? Submerge your MB in liquid nitrogen to gain a couple o' hundred MHz? I've seen some pretty cool hacks on
How about spending nights and weekends hacking the Linux kernel to reduce interrupt latency? Would the "average" computer user care or notice?
I would think that many people would do this. We nerds have a kindred spirit in hot-rodders. To them, a generic four-banger is the M$ of the automotive world.
I would like to add that I'm both a computer hacker and car hacker (Subaru WRX). I also brew my own beer (beer hacker?).
Re:Very common already (Score:3, Insightful)
Very true. They're the same in spirit, and the only difference is in implementation.
You usally (usually!) don't have to worry about getting stuck in the middle of nowhere if your overclocked MB bites the dust, and when it does, it doesn't always (always!) mean that it will make a $4000 engine turn itself into scrap.
The skill sets are different, too. With overclocking, you need good computer skills and some common-sense mechanical and electrical skills. Beyond that, all you need is the cash to buy it all. When deciphering a modern engine management system you need a good background in CS, some workable knowledge of EE, and enough mechanical skills to get the damned thing running.
Or, in the case of some (some!) of the vinyl-sticker-emblazoned, wake-the-neighborhood-up-at-3am types, all you need is a good instruction manual or a mechanic worth his price.
But I definitely agree with you. The spirit is the same.
Nothing like having a computer controlled car (Score:2, Informative)
People have also hacked my instrument cluster computer to display a radar detector and boost gauge [tripcomp.com].
It only gets more fun from here
True story... (Score:5, Funny)
Cop did the whole license, registration, et cetera bit, and asked why I was revving so high at a stop, and told me people were complaining about the noise. I showed him the software, explained what was going on, showed him the throttle readout, and so on. The cop shook his head, said "Kids nowadays", got in his car, and left.
LV
AoA already does that (Score:2)
LV
Re:AoA already does that (Score:2, Insightful)
sigh
The high HP mainstream luxury sports cars (S4, M3/M5, 911, Corvette, etc), in general are limited at the power that they get because a) Its damn fast as is and b) its actually reliable at those HP/Torque numbers.
There's a very good reason why $150,000 Ferraris are in the shop for serious engine maintenance every 3000 miles: namely that there are physical limits with what can be done with internal combustion engines without sacrificing reliability. Hell, you'd think if they could make one that didn't require massive maintenance on a short schedule, they could sell it for twice as much.
Boosting an S4 to run with Ferraris is counter-productive in the sense that you're likely gonna end up paying the cost of a ferrari in maintenance anyway (well, not quite, but it will be damn expensive and unreliable).
Tim
Re:AoA already does that (Score:3, Interesting)
Anyway, second poster: cars today are engineered way way way beyond the use they will see in stock form. An audi s4 most likely will be reliable at 400 crank hp. They have sleeved cylinders and a strong bottom end (amongst other features). 500 would most likely be pushing it. And the S4 will run through tires at the same rate with 250 hp as it would with 600hp. Its all about the weight, not the power, unless you do lots and lots of huge smoky burnouts. The first poster's S4 will actually be no more expensive than stock in the long run, and it will not be any less reliable.
Also, an S4 is not a light little car. It weighs about 3500 lbs, which in my book is a very heavy car. Thats only marginally lighter than a bmw 5 series.
Ferraris are in the shop every 3000 miles for a number of reasons:
Ferrari's reputation isnt based upon having reliable cars- that is Honda's little dance. If Ferrari starts making reliable sorta-fast cars, then they will be written off as having lost touch with their heritage (porsche cayenne anyone? blech)
They arent engineered to be super reliable, they are engineered to be weekend toys for the rich. Ferrari makes a lot of concessions to performance and a lot of concessions to "tradition" since many people buy ferrari because they want to buy into ferraris old racing image. People want gated shifters, a loud whiny exhaust and they want it painted red.
They have more complicated valve trains with a ton more moving parts. A ferrari v12 has about 60 valves and 4 camshafts, non of which are self adjusting (another concession). Sooo, once a year or so, you have to bring your ferrari in and have everything looked at. VERY expensive. About 3 times more labor involved than opening up a dohc 4 cylinder- this before you factor in the traditional ferrari price gouge.
Ferraris have a special formula of oil you can only get at the dealer.
Ferrari parts arent exactly mass produced. Its cheaper to do preventative maintenance than to drive it until it explodes and then replace the engine.
Re:AoA already does that (Score:2)
The S4 weighs about 3600 actually. AWD must weight about 400, which isnt too bad at all compared to the 3000GT VR4 whale-car.
The pushrods on the S4 can take 400hp. They are much stronger than they need to be for 250hp. There are plenty of people running 400 crank hp on the stock rods with no problems whatsoever. Its not even a controversial level of power.
LINK UPDATE REQUESTED: (Score:4, Informative)
Use this: http://www.tuxedo.org/~esr/jargon/html/entry/hack
software mods aren't risk free (Score:3, Informative)
As for turbo chips...bear with me here. My car('91 Audi 200 quattro 20v turbo) makes 217hp stock. With new ROM chips for fuel/timing maps and a new pressure sensor supplied by an Audi tuner who has been in business since the early 80's...it makes almost 280, by allowing higher pressure from the turbo(aka "boost".) It yields sub 6 second 0-60 times for a full size luxury sedan(not to brag, but few cars, new or old, can beat me off the line, including any of Audi's current model lineup, unmodified.)
This particular chip pretty much stresses the limit of the k26 turbo; as with any turbo, spin it too fast and it'll disintegrate. These things operate at -very- high speeds...50,000 rpms is not uncommon...very high temps(several hundred degrees or more)...and very close tolerances. If a piece flies off or something, it can cause an enormous amount of damage; little pieces of the turbo can end up getting inhaled by the engine. If you're lucky, it doesn't take the engine with it. If you're not so lucky, the metal shards scratch the cylinder walls, or the oil causes so much crap to build up inside the cylinder that the compression ratio skyrockets and the engine starts to "knock"(ie when the mixture ignites before it should.) When the piston's still going up and the mixture ignites, you can break things. FAST. Look on almost all engines these days and you'll see a small sensor bolted to the block...it's a microphone, basically, and it listens for knocking(the ECU knows when it fired a spark plug, so if it gets a noise when it hasn't...tada, knocking.)
Particularly with a chip, there are a lot of things that can push the turbo over the edge...for example, a clogged air filter will make the turbo work harder to pressurize the same amount of air(ie, it'll need to spin faster.) While the engine control unit(ECU) takes into account high elevation via an external barometric sensor, it can't tell if your air filter is clogged! Another danger is that the intake air temperature can be too high; as you compress air, it heats up, and if it's too hot, the further compression in the cylinder will heat it beyond the flash point of the gas/air mixture, and you get knocking(see above.) You can also exceed the limits of the mechanical strength of the connecting rods(ie what connects the piston to the crankshaft, transferring the force of the explosion into mechanical rotation), the head bolts(what holds the "head" of the engine up against the block; it forms the top of the cylinder, and the more powerful the explosion in the cylinder, the more stress on the head bolts), the transmission, even the driveshafts sometimes
Some early chip designs for A4/S4 models pushed the turbos just a tad too much(the vendor in question had a bad reputation in the first place) and turbos were getting overspun left+right(expensive, considering the S4 has -two- turbos.)
Audi of America got wise to it, and unfortunately, is now -extremely- aggressive about going after owners who have installed aftermarket chips, despite the fact that they're quite safe now that more reputable tuners(who do better QA testing) have forced the crappy chips off the market.
So, dealers started checking ECUs for signs of removal, modification, etc. Owners countered by buying spare ECUs and installing the unmodified ECUs back into the car before having it serviced.
Amusingly, AoA caught on to this too...because their Client Relations staff were reading the webboards these guys belonged to. They were dumb enough to brag about it after "fooling the dealer".
VW and Audi have already started introducing encryption+verification that keys the ECU to all sorts of other things in the car so that it can't be easily swapped. VW/Audi's "real" reason is that it is for antitheft reasons.
It took all but a month or two for someone to figure out how to get around the keying. Same debate as publishing security exploits...except that cars generally don't get stolen unless they can be stolen in a few minutes, and keying the ECU doesn't prevent theft(it just makes the ECU useless in any other car until its been re-keyed.)
People have been doing this for quite a while. (Score:3, Interesting)
Actually, this car hacking stuff is old hat. (Score:5, Informative)
To make an example, the average honda civic computer settings are pretty much already maxxed out in stock form. You add an intake and an exhaust and youre still in the range that the stock computer can adjust for. You can actually add about half an atmosphere of boost (from turbo or supercharger) and still not need a custom computer. This applies to a most other non-turbo cars as well. Factory turbo cars have even higher limits.
Remember, modern cars have to be able to operate at 10,000 feet above and below sea level in a wide range of temperatures. Most cars have injectors that can take about 150% to 200% of stock duty before they begin to max out. Up to this point the car will still not even pollute!
Basically the only 2 ways to outpace the stock computer is to
1)bring in too little air at idle or have massively oversized injectors (the computer can't control the injectors to produce less than a certain minimum period of being open) which will cause "lopey idle" or stalling and rich emmissions.
2)bring in so much air at high rpm that the stock injectors can't let in enough fuel. Basically you will start to run "lean" (not enough fuel) which will produce very high temperatures and detonation (and kill your engine).
You basically only need a special computer if you are running massive cams (alternatively you could just raise the idle, which most people do) or if youre running such massive amounts of boost that the only solution is to run massive injectors (here again, you can actually just raise the idle). Now consider this: when youre making over double the stock hp, there is no way a factory computer is going to be able to cope anyway- I dont see the point of making them more hackable. On top of which, the only reason to use an expensive computer is to make the car more emissions friendly. And guess what mods are pretty much illegal under CARB rules? You guessed it! Programmable ECUs!!! The high-boost 323 and miata guys routinely run hacked ECUs with 12-15psi of boost, then turn down the boost and swap injectors for smog every two years. Its pretty sad that you have to break the law to pollute less.
Re: (Score:2)
Re:How about ignition timing.... (Score:2)
In California, at least, 10 degrees ATDC timing at idle is mandatory on post-1972 cars. That limits nitrogen oxide emissions in high compression engines by reducing peak combustion temperature.
I ran into that problem when I was still a VW grease monkey -- 1973 VW engines hardly qualify as high compression, and emit very little nitrogen oxide. The ATDC timing causes extra heating and lower efficiency at idle and low speed. EGR works on the same principle -- lower peak combustion temperature to reduce NO and N2O production (at the cost of slightly more CO and HC emissions, and more fuel consumed).
The law was written that way because it's hard to detect the nitrogen compounds cheaply in the exhaust, so it's easier to mandate the most common solution than it is to mandate testable standards.
If you like sausage and respect the law, you shouldn't look at how either is made. (Mark Twain).
Hmmm..... (Score:5, Funny)
The one truly open sourced car (Score:3, Interesting)
Re: (Score:2)
Skins... (Score:2)
fun stuff... (Score:2)
/brian
Best line of the article (Score:2, Interesting)
"They stared at me as though I'd just showed them a mouthful of partially chewed black beetles"
This is as good as the other article a few months ago where the guy said:
"As cool as the other side of the pillow."
Definitely two phrases I'm going to try and work into conversation, with proper attribution of course.
----
Please win this beer store. [beer-depot.com]
Ford EEC-IV and EEC-V hacking is old news... (Score:2)
There are all sorts of realtime management systems as well as piggyback chips that you can plug into your cars computer and flip a switch for different settings.
I recommend it (Score:2)
I do, it's a lot of fun, but along with your laptop to reprogram it, you need a device to measure performance improvements also. You can't judge yourself if you got +5hp or lost 5 due to your changes in configuration.
And while your at it, you need to remember that different air temperature and the amount of water in the air, changes the performance of the engine.
I have built a cold air intake for my engine, shielded the intake from heat from the engine the car already had a pipe all the way to the front to ensure it picked it up from the outside.
A cold damp, foggy morning does wonders in terms of performance, it's something my car really like. Of course one needs to find the perfect place to drive where the road isn't slippery.
Then of course there is my NOS installation (Nitro Oxide System) another nice little hack, with adds +50% horse power when accel. could get +75% or more, but I would like my engine to last 50.000 before changing it.
Note, that all these changes and improvements of the engine og course changes the specs so much that it is not legal anymore for street use. Just in case you care.
Off-the-self. (Score:2)
Off the self? I thought those big cars meant the driver had a small....oh nevermind. This joke was too lame to even finish.
Besides, with Slashdot editors around, who needs to poke fun at the article's typo's?
Re:Bicycle. (Score:5, Funny)
Nothing to hack? Hah!
It starts with the baseball cards taped to the frame that make the BRRRRRRR sound in the spokes.
Next thing you know you've got an oxy-acetalyne torch in your hand and you're welding a sissy bar to the frame and extending the front forks for that low-rent low-rider look.
Ask the people at Fat City or Rivendell how they got started.
k.
Re:Bicycle. (Score:2)
Re:Bicycle. (Score:2, Funny)
It starts with those beers that you drank at the bar that you're walking home from....
Re:Bicycle. (Score:3, Funny)
Do you really believe that your shoes don't record your beverage brand choice?
Re:Bicycle. (Score:2, Funny)
Re:Hmm.. (Score:2)
That "you wouldn't be able to hack the car" doesn't strike me as a statement that comes from someone who doesn't understand the notion, but rather that it is the reasoned comment of someone who probably doesn't want to a) risk liability should a user do something stupid with the software (IANAL so I couldn't say how likely this might be); b) have Joe Shmoe messing around with their work; or c) risk precisely the situation that J.D. King describes: 'hacking the car directly' instead of buying a new model.
Although the article makes the point that hardware mods are big business for auto manufacturers, I can't see them going for the idea of having the end user flash upgrading their rom and thus having at their hands new software and options that might otherwise have lured them to buying new models. No, I kinda suspect that the real reasons things are taking so long to move forward is that the car designers know only too well what they're up to and what the customer might have in mind, and aren't going to be rushing towards that future any time soon.
Re:Hmm.. (Score:4, Insightful)
Maybe commerical software engineers will realize this, some day?
Re:What's with all the rice rockets now daysİİİİ (Score:2)
Re:What's with all the rice rockets now daysİİİİ (Score:2)
In real-world testing using instrumented motorcycles and automobiles, while motorcycles have the advantage in the initial acceleration once you throw in a lot of curves a higher-powered sports car wins hand down. Indeed, I remember reading an article showing that a Dodge Viper will lap the Willow Springs race course substantially faster than all but maybe 2-3 models of very high-end motorcycles.