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United States Government Power

Are U.S. Utilities Trying to Delay Easy-to-Use Solar 'Balcony' Panels? (npr.org) 120

Plug-in (or "balcony") solar panels can also be hung out a window or be set up in a backyard, reports NPR. They channel energy from the sun straight into a home's electrical outlet, generating enough electricity to power a refrigerator or microwave while "displacing electricity that otherwise would come in from the grid..."

But what's holding up their adoption in America? For the panels to become more widely available in the U.S., state lawmakers are proposing bills that eliminate complicated utility connection agreements, which are required for larger rooftop solar installations and, most utilities say, should apply to plug-in solar too. Those agreements, along with permitting and other installation costs, can double the price of solar panels. Utah enacted the first law, last May, supporting plug-in solar, and now some 30 pieces of similar legislation have been introduced around the United States. [And Virginia seems poised to pass a similar law.]

But the drive toward plug-in solar is facing pushback from electric utilities. They are raising safety concerns and prompting legislators to delay votes on the bills. So far, utilities have won over lawmakers in five states and convinced them to delay votes on plug-in solar bills... Plug-in solar advocates say that safety concerns about the new technology have been addressed and that utilities are really just worried about losing business, because every kilowatt-hour generated by a plug-in solar panel is one less the utility sells to a customer... There are safety risks with any electrical appliance, and it's true that plug-in solar panels present some unique problems. But safety experts also say those issues can be managed....

German utilities expressed many of the same concerns nearly a decade ago when plug-in solar started to become popular in Germany. But with more than a million systems installed, no safety incidents have been reported for customers who used the panels as instructed, according to a research paper funded by the U.S. Department of Energy.

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Are U.S. Utilities Trying to Delay Easy-to-Use Solar 'Balcony' Panels?

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  • Safety-- (Score:5, Informative)

    by XXongo ( 3986865 ) on Saturday March 14, 2026 @05:40PM (#66041676) Homepage

    The main safety issue with plug-in solar is that the solar panel must not feed power to the grid if there's an electrical outage. This is because repair crews for the utility company need to be sure that there isn't power coming in from the user side when they're repairing the producer side.

    The Utah bill referenced (https://le.utah.gov/~2025/bills/static/HB0340.html) includes that explicitly:
    (2)A portable solar generation device shall include a device or feature that prevents the system from energizing the building's electrical system during a power outage.

    So, I'd think that as long as that is built into the system, and assuming it passes UL standards for consumer safety, I think the safety issue should not be a problem.

    • Re:Safety-- (Score:5, Interesting)

      by thegarbz ( 1787294 ) on Saturday March 14, 2026 @07:48PM (#66041818)

      That's not the main safety issue. These systems do not have grid forming inverters and are simply unable to supply electricity (can't sync to a non-existent waveform) when there is no grid power available.

      The biggest issue with plug-in solar is wiring safety. If you have a system that is protected by a circuit breaker, the idea IS any load downstream of that breaker cannot exceed the maximum load the wire is able to withstand without the breaker tripping. If you feed power in downstream of that circuit breaker you have the potential to draw a maximum power of what the breaker is capable of + whatever the solar panel is outputting over the wire depending on where in the circuit you're plugged into. Suddenly your breaker may not be able to prevent you overloading your wiring.

      This scares me a bit in America. At least in Germany (where they note there's few safety issues) there's a tendency to have over spec'd wires with undersized breakers. Indeed most circuits have a 16A breaker with an installation design that could withstand 27A. Plugging in a 2000W panel (which these balcony panels won't do) simply won't burn your house down unless you plug multiple into the same circuit.

      American wiring does not feature the same over-design.

      • Re:Safety-- (Score:5, Interesting)

        by thegarbz ( 1787294 ) on Saturday March 14, 2026 @07:54PM (#66041822)

        Replying to self: UL seems to have recognised the big limitation in America as well. Plug-in solar installations such as balcony panels which do *not* have dedicated circuits with unique non-standard electrical outlet appear to be limited to 391W, which is quite shitty. Forget the microwave, you're barely running the TV. The limit in Germany is 800W.

      • That's so interesting. What would the equivalent gauge be for the size / type of wiring that's used in Germany? We use 12 for 20a circuits and 14g for 15a.

        • It would be 14AWG. But that's not the end of it. The actual ampacity is determined by method of installation and insulation. There's practical differences in wiring between the places which would in theory at least give German houses a higher safety margin (mainly mostly conduit based installation with V90 insulation).

        • Germany runs on 230V, so 800W draws about 3.5A. That's a trivially light load for any household wiring. Even the thinnest standard European residential wire handles it without breaking a sweat.
          The US runs on 120V, so 800W would draw about 6.7A, still well within what 14 AWG (rated 15A) handles safely, let alone 12 AWG.
          So the wire gauge concern is essentially a non-issue in both countries at these power levels. The 391W American limit isn't being driven by wiring capacity - 14 AWG at 120V could handle double

      • The biggest issue with plug-in solar is wiring safety. If you have a system that is protected by a circuit breaker, the idea IS any load downstream of that breaker cannot exceed the maximum load the wire is able to withstand without the breaker tripping. If you feed power in downstream of that circuit breaker you have the potential to draw a maximum power of what the breaker is capable of + whatever the solar panel is outputting over the wire depending on where in the circuit you're plugged into. Suddenly your breaker may not be able to prevent you overloading your wiring.

        Panel fires due to hotspots caused by microcracking and diode failure from persistent shading are far more likely risks than this sort of piling on of unlikely events.

        Plugging in a 2000W panel (which these balcony panels won't do) simply won't burn your house down unless you plug multiple into the same circuit.

        It is generally a few hundred watts max. You are looking worse case at an extra watt/meter of energy dissipation on a typical 15A circuit using 14AWG romex. This isn't a real issue.

        • It is generally a few hundred watts max.

          Yes, precisely because the standards limit the power due to safety reasons. It's 800W max in Germany with a specific requirement that only one be attached to any circuit.

          This isn't an unlikely situation. People overload circuits constantly which is why safety regulations are in place.

      • Re: (Score:3, Informative)

        by Anonymous Coward

        This scares me a bit in America. At least in Germany (where they note there's few safety issues) there's a tendency to have over spec'd wires with undersized breakers. Indeed most circuits have a 16A breaker with an installation design that could withstand 27A. Plugging in a 2000W panel (which these balcony panels won't do) simply won't burn your house down unless you plug multiple into the same circuit.

        American wiring does not feature the same over-design.

        Not to mention the unique "split phase" system used in North America.

        Most of our house devices operate on 120v, however our homes get a 240v handoff from the transformer on the pole, along with a dedicated neutral that taps into the center of that transformer.

        This lets us derive 120v between neutral and one of the hot wires.
        But these two 120v circuits (hot A to neutral, and neutral to hot B) are NOT the same, they are a full 180 degrees out of phase with each other.

        Normally an attempt is made to "balance" t

      • by AmiMoJo ( 196126 )

        One possible work-around is to charge a battery, and use its outputs to power appliances. The battery can be charged from the mains as well. Obviously it's an additional cost and takes up a bit of space, but it will never feed energy back into the home wiring.

        • The problem there is the usefulness of a system that only runs limited appliances rather than just feeding your house.

      • American codes also have healthy safety margins. Wire sizes are approved based on worst case assumptions, and are often sized based on maximum tolerable voltage drop (i.e. lights dimming when you run the microwave), rather than concerns about wire overloading.

        The risk is there, but assuming the devices are limited to a certain size, the risk of wire overloading should be minimal.
        • The American safety codes don't have near the margin the German ones do precisely because wiring is installed in a different way. But in any case it looks like the problem is largely resolved by making the systems borderline worthless. UL listed panels are limited to 391W.

    • by gweihir ( 88907 )

      They all got a cut-off for that: Unless they detect voltage and frequency from external, they have nothing to sync to and will not inject power. This really is a pseudo-concern.

    • by tlhIngan ( 30335 ) <slashdot.worf@net> on Sunday March 15, 2026 @07:39AM (#66042288)

      The main safety issue with plug-in solar is that the solar panel must not feed power to the grid if there's an electrical outage. This is because repair crews for the utility company need to be sure that there isn't power coming in from the user side when they're repairing the producer side.

      The Utah bill referenced (https://le.utah.gov/~2025/bills/static/HB0340.html) includes that explicitly:
      (2)A portable solar generation device shall include a device or feature that prevents the system from energizing the building's electrical system during a power outage.

      So, I'd think that as long as that is built into the system, and assuming it passes UL standards for consumer safety, I think the safety issue should not be a problem.

      Yes, this is a huge issue.

      But it's also not an issue. Because islanding (which is the technical industry term) is something built into microinverters and regular inverters used in solar. The technology is mature and the microinverters used in balcony solar are basically smaller versions of the same microinverters used on rooftop solar with the same islanding protection.

      Balcony solar often involves an external islanding protection as well. And this is for safety because the German and UK ones use suicide cords, so unplugging the solar from the wall outlet means exposed prongs which need to be immediately de-energized so if you touch the prongs you won't get electrocuted.

      The technology is sound and is the same for rooftop solar. The danger of backfeed is less with solar and more with generator users since generators almost never have islanding protection and you're relying on safety cutouts to prevent backfeed.

      The complexity of balcony solar is more with the split-phase nature of North American electricity - you really don't want to feed just one side and neutral - it's fine for low wattage uses, but it can cause a severe imbalance in neutral currents. But plugs offering both phases are rare in most homes - usually limited to AC, dryer and stove.

      For one or two panels that likely offer only 500W or so, it's not a big deal, but it's something to watch for since the neutral conductor isn't supposed to carry much current in a properly balanced system. (in a properly balanced system, neutral current is zero)

  • A refrigerator? A microwave? I've got 4 full-size monocrystalline solar panels on my roof and they might run a mini fridge, or an inverter microwave at 75% power on the sunniest of days.
    • by Sique ( 173459 ) on Saturday March 14, 2026 @05:50PM (#66041692) Homepage
      I have just installed two panels two weeks ago, and as this is early in March, it's not running even nearly at peak power. But nevertheless, I got up to 490 Watts from the panels, or about 2.5 kWh for the whole day.
      • An average American home consumes close to 1000KwH of electricity per month. Assuming its sunny, and is rarely cloudy in your area, that would still be only about 7.5% of a typical home's electrical needs. Where I live, that would save me about $8-9/month....or about the cost of a couple of loaves of bread. And of course, very few places are sunny every day all year long.

        Granted, not everyone lives in a single family house that uses a lot of electricity in a state with relatively inexpensive grid power.

        • I have a massive 23 kW PV in California. It generates about 1000 kWh in low winter motnhs, and over 4000 kWh in peak spring/summer months. The storage that would be required to fully go off grid with my massive home with 2 EVs that consumes 2200 kWh/month just doesn't exist. It wouldn't be just for rainy days. It would need to work across seasons. We are talking at least 3 MWh worth of batteries to support winter. Even if cost was no object, it wouldn't be physically possible to have that much on my lot.

          • There must be something wrong with your installation.. my 9kw system generates 5.5kw peak and ~55kwh/day in the summer. I charge my 20kwh battery and then export for several hours. Also SoCal

            • NVM. Tired brain. Ignore me ðY...

              • by madbrain ( 11432 )

                Forgiven. I'm in Norcal also, so less sun in winter. I have seen as low as 4 kWh produced on rainy winter days, and as high as 145 kWh produced on peak summer days. But no battery. Last year, I had net grid exports of 6030 kWh. But actually imported 17200 kWh, and exported 23200 kWh.

                Of course, PG&E punishes us now by paying much less for exports than charging for imports. I just setup with 2 OpenEVSE to do load following from my Rainforeast Eagle with an HA automation and MQTT. I also got a local LLM ru

                • Are you thinking of getting enough batteries to escape the grid or just balance your imports and exports? Also, I know a lot of cities in California will not let you disconnect the grid and others that do let you disconnect first require a lot of steps to appease government. I looked into it 5 years ago and was surprised when I learned some of that. My initial reaction was pretty much "Illegal to disconnect from the grid? Fuck you!" since it's really just forcing me to be a customer of the local utility, SD

          • Perhaps with a "massive home" it doesn't work. How many "massive home" people are out there? I suspect that's a standard deviation or three away from the bell of the curve.

            • by madbrain ( 11432 )

              Our massive home is also quite efficient. 2200 kWh for a 4600 sq ft home that includes 2 central ACs, a sauna, a hot tub, and 2 EVs, is actually very spartan considering all the loads. GP states the average US home uses 1000 kWh, and the average US home is about half the size, and does not include any EV.

              To fully cover the average home's 1000 kWh usage, you would need to be in my sunny Norcal climate, with my 70-panel 23.2 kw PV system that wouldn't fit on the average home's roof. You would also need a coup

              • I'd LOVE to know where they get those averages. Maybe it's just the case of living in California for so long, but most homes here just aren't described as massive. Sure, plenty of single family homes are decent size, but not like yours. I find it pretty hard to believe the average use is 1000kwh a month. I mean, as a condo/apartment dweller, I think the most I ever managed to reach was 350 in a particularly hot summer month (wasn't normal, didn't happen the prior year or year after). I only remember it beca

          • > The storage that would be required to fully go off grid ... just doesn't exist ... it wouldn't be physically possible to have that much on my lot

            You say "massive home" but how massive are we talking? I reckon you could stack 3MWh of LFP into as little as 300 sq.ft. (including BMS but not chargers/inverters). Exactly how much space would depend on ceiling height and layout to account for isle space. :)

            =Smidge=

            • Massive house, but not massive lot. A quick gemini chat states i would need more like 1200sq ft and specific clearance. I would not have on my inclined lot. It is moot since the project would cost at minimum $500k, probably closer to $1M. Possibly more. Too much. My electric bill is currently negative annually. I also don't want to have that much battery at home due to fire risk. I live fire risk area, and fire department is at least 10 mins away. I don't think off grid is practical unless you live way sout

        • by AmiMoJo ( 196126 )

          It's not ideal, but it's the only option for people with apartments who can't fit solar anywhere else. I don't know what the rules are like in the US, but typically adding solar to exterior walls is not allowed. Balcony solar really is the only choice.

          • Some apartments will let this fly. Other's probably won't. Anything with an HOA is definitely going to shoot this down. "They are ugly"....sigh. Hate HOAs. We had to pass laws in California to *force* HOAs to even allow traditional solar. My last condo association wasn't to happy when I wouldn't give up but they knew I was correct and had to let me get the work done. So glad I sold that place. The new owners are lucky the roof isn't that old, because they will have to take the solar down when the HOA decide

    • A refrigerator? A microwave? I've got 4 full-size monocrystalline solar panels on my roof and they might run a mini fridge, or an inverter microwave at 75% power on the sunniest of days.

      This.

      I'm gonna call bullshit on balcony-grade solar powering the average American-sized refrigerator. Last time I tried to power my neighbors with a gas generator it was popping circuits. Damn thing drew eighteeen amps.

      • It's not supposed to power anything in particular. The point is to offset costs. A kilowatt you're generating with those panels is a kilowatt you're not paying the power company.

        • It's not supposed to power anything in particular. The point is to offset costs. A kilowatt you're generating with those panels is a kilowatt you're not paying the power company.

          At that level of greed, I’d expect all types of solar panels to become illegal for consumers to use or possess.

          You know, because “safety”.

          • If the utilities thought they could get away with it, they would be.

            • If the utilities thought they could get away with it by making a few electrical backfeed martyrs, they’d allow that legit problem to fester just long enough to warrant making all solar installations illegal unless done by the electric company.

              FTFY. Just in case you were still wondering why they’re still legal. And the profits they plan on the ass end of a few strategic wrongful death lawsuits.

              We don’t just make safety laws anymore. We justify them. With blood.

        • "It's not supposed to power anything in particular. "

          People I know mostly use it to cool their homes when sun is at its peak.

          With E-prices in Germany, 2-3 of these make sense.

      • by sjames ( 1099 )

        That was either the start in-rush or their fridge was made in the '50s.

    • My refrigerator draws 200 watts. Starting current is the issue.

      The freezer draws 165 watts even though it's colder.

      I can and have run them both at the same time on an 800 watt inverter. Start the refrigerator first then a couple minutes later start the freezer.

      The microwave on startup daws more than 15 amps and the killawatt meter won't read the peak.

    • Ideally you'll charge batteries with them and then use a low-frequency inverter to power the fridge.

      But this is another $2k on the low end for something decent.

      Does anybody know how they synchronize the AC waveform on these plug-in things?

      I have been operating on the understanding that you can smash DC sources together but not AC. It sounds like I could parallel inverters with this tech. That would be cool.

      • by ffkom ( 3519199 )

        Does anybody know how they synchronize the AC waveform on these plug-in things?

        I have been operating on the understanding that you can smash DC sources together but not AC. It sounds like I could parallel inverters with this tech. That would be cool.

        Power electronics have become cheap enough that inverters, including ones that synchronize to an existing network, are quite easy to manufacture even for home use. And yes, running multiple such in parallel is possible, and actually supported by some of the "balcony PV"-inverters sold in Germany, not least to sneakily circumvent the 800W regulatory limit. You can even mix balcony PV with multiple home battery units, if you want. Of course one still needs to take care that the cabling won't be overloaded, an

        • Break even depends on how terrible your utility prices are. I don't know what Germany charges per kilowatt, but California ranges from 40-50 cents a KwH depending on time of day. Of course that's *today's rate*. They push those rates up every freaken year and now we have a connection fee. That particularly pissed me off since it punished saving power. To *break even* with the new scheme, you have to be one of the higher power users. Such a racket and it's backed up by the state, with governor appointed peop

    • A refrigerator? A microwave? I've got 4 full-size monocrystalline solar panels on my roof and they might run a mini fridge, or an inverter microwave at 75% power on the sunniest of days.

      I'm curious, WTF kind of fridge do you have. I have what is comically called in Europe an "American style" fridge. It pulls 250W and has no problem running from solar on a *cloudy* day. I agree with the microwave though, there's no way you're powering that with a balcony solar installation, not the least of which because UL limits the plug-in solar systems without dedicated wiring to 391W which is not enough to run a microwave.

    • by Jeremi ( 14640 )

      I don't think "what appliance can you run on a solar panel" is the right question to be asking, since these solar panels will never be tasked to run an appliance by themselves anyway.

      The right question to ask is, "by how much will plugging in one of these reduce my electric bill?"

      Once you know that, you can decide if it's worth the purchase price or not.

      • by Gramie2 ( 411713 )

        And this is why solar may never really take off in Quebec, where the vast majority (> 99%) of electricity is generated by hydropower and I pay about USD $0.05/kwh, or about 15% what someone in California, and 33% of the average cost in Germany.

        Hydro Quebec was expropriated by the Quebec government in 1944, and even with the low cost of electricity it pays about USD $3 billion into government coffers every year. But hey everybody, let's privatize the essential utility to make it more efficient! (said no o

    • Modern fridges run very high duty cycles at only a few hundred watts. It's meaningfully more efficient that a big ass compressor running for only a few minutes at a time.
  • They warn that the grid can't handle the influx of power needed for the upcoming data centers, yet are happy to pass the cost of new infrastructure onto the average US consumer. Then they want to fuck the average US customer for finding ways to help with this so called data center power crisis. Fuck them. Fuck them with a lightning rod.

  • I have very mixed feelings about home solar and grid-tying. Particularly with two-way meters where you sell power. Pushing power into the grids from homes is a challenge for grid operators to balance, particularly when for residential areas peak solar doesn't coincide wit peak demand. And the idea that home owners should sell power to the grid at retail rates is pretty silly, honestly.

    On the other hand I think solar is awesome ad we should have more of it, along with battery storage.

    If these systems simp

    • The grid doesn't have to pay retail for it, I'd be happy with 1/2 price and sell it back to me 2x at night.
      • The way it has worked out in Australia is the grid charges you around 35c/kwh, but pays you 3c/kwh. Feeding back to the grid gives you almost nothing, the only real savings is in scheduling household appliances to run during the day consuming the solar before it goes to the grid.

        • by caseih ( 160668 )

          Yeah I'm not surprised that's the way it is in Australia. Makes a ton of sense. In North America there's still an expectation by home owners that they'll make retail rates, which surely is unrealistic.

          • With netmetering 3.0 in California, they have vastly reduced the purchase price compared to netmetering 2.0, more then doubling the time it takes to break even with the system. Furthermore, if you add a battery to a pre-existing setup that's on 2.0, they'll update you to 3.0 because they are such nice fellas.

            CPUC is corrupt and in bed with the utilities. Your best bet is to get a battery that can offset as much as possible so you use your solar energy while the sun is out, then the battery at night. You wil

        • Your grid isn't struggling to meet daytime production though. If it was, you'd get better rates.
        • You'd need to examine the bill closely. 35c/kwh sure sounds like total bill divided by total consumption, but there's likely (if it's anything like my bill) a bunch of line items either not directly tied to kwh consumed (connection fees, taxes, 'adjustments' etc) or the kwh are partitioned into tranches and/or time of use pricing tiers.

          3c/kwh sounds like the actual retail value of the electricity per kwh.

          So basically they're buying the energy from you at what it's actually worth.
          =Smidge=

  • put up panels, save money, and the planet
    • You know it's good because they are working against it and Trump is lying about everything good involved with it.
      Also the delusional morons call everybody grounded in reality crazy. Not them. 1000s of experts risk professional sanctions diagnosing Trump as crazy and do we hear about it? Only President Epstein diagnosing everybody who disagrees as crazy. I'm surprised he is not calling everybody pedophiles...but he's keeping off that whole topic as much as possible; it has to be really really bad for him n

  • "every kilowatt-hour generated by a plug-in solar panel is one less the utility sells to a customer"

    No, that would be true only if all balcony panels were battery-buffered in one's home. But buffer batteries for home use are still quite expensive, so depending on how many years they actually last, they may or may not break even against the savings from power you did not have to buy. For most people, balcony PV is less of a profit center, and more of a virtue signal "look, I'm doing my part for non-fossil energy!". The utilities of course hate balcony PV, and while the safety issues are just a pretense, th

    • by dfghjk ( 711126 )

      "No, that would be true only if all balcony panels were battery-buffered in one's home. "

      No, it would be true regardless of "battery buffering".

      "...depending on how many years they actually last, they may or may not break even against the savings from power you did not have to buy...."

      That is true of everything, it is not an insight. And profitability is not the topic, either.

      "For most people, balcony PV is less of a profit center, and more of a virtue signal "

      Well your narrative is certainly coming into f

    • We're talking about a really small amount of power here, especially if the panel is capped at 391. Your households idle power usage is probably higher then what that 400 watt panel will produce in ideal conditions. Nothing is going to even reach the grid. That's how it's going to offset your bill a bit.

  • "...no safety incidents have been reported for customers who used the panels as instructed..."

    When I read a phrase containing a built in caveat, I always wonder what's tucked inside it.

    • by gweihir ( 88907 )

      Essentially: Yes, if you are reeeeally dumb, you can hurt yourself with it.

      • Well, yeah. That's what it says on the tin. :)

        But there's a suggestion that some people did have safety incidents, we just won't mention them. I wonder how many, and of what nature. Were their errors understandable, and have steps been taken to correct the possible misuse, or at least the documentation?

        • by gweihir ( 88907 )

          It is probably just litigation nation, where, say, somebody intentionally hammered their hand with a tin and then tried to recover medical cost and damages because it did not say "do not hammer hand with tin". In sane legal systems, courts do not even accept claims like that for decision.

          • by dfghjk ( 711126 )

            It's probably just the people saying it, putting in some weasel words to cover for the fact that they haven't bothered to check and are lying to support their narrative.

            • by gweihir ( 88907 )

              ... are lying to support their narrative.

              That seems to be the default mode of many people today. Being seen as being correct is far more important to them than being actually correct. That is not how insight and understanding works. And then they assume everybody does it (because they do not realize they are operating on a level of personal integrity and honor significantly below others) and accuse people with actual facts of having made them up.

      • by dfghjk ( 711126 )

        Why should anyone believe that's the correct interpretation? Why would the OP even comment if that were true?

  • This is just FUD. The safety concerns from what I can tell are about back feeding hurting workers and people during outages. Downed lines already do that and this increase in risk is overblown. Code in the US is already requiring filtering at the main panel, so this is all a bunch of hooey. These are supposed to be public utilities that are working for us to do what we want... Not gatekeeping nannies of the status quo.
  • Some areas would need additional legislative work to eliminate bureaucratic hurdles. For example, where I live in California the physical installation of the solar panels requires multiple permits and a structural engineering design, review, and approval process. You can't simply prop some panels up on a flat roof, balcony, or in the back yard because of California's permit-based approach to public safety on private property. A required portion of the balcony solar legislation involves getting approval f

    • Having done all that once before, I'd rather buy batteries and sell zero to the grid. You could have your power panel setup to use the battery for a portion of the house and leave the other portion on the grid even. Since you are not selling to the grid, you hide all this from the nanny state.

      P.S. You could even charge stand-alone batteries that don't even tie to your house. Use them to power your devices. Since you are forced to stay on the grid anyway, the best you can hope for is offsetting the bill. Thi

  • Right, what I keep reading is if the panels provide more power than the breaker can handle.

    For me, who replaced his electric stove a few years ago with gas, I'll just plug the panels into the stove circuit - which is set up to offer *two* 20A breakers.

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